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#When Hollywood Manes Start to Wane: The Latest in Stemming (and Hiding) Hair Loss

When Hollywood Manes Start to Wane: The Latest in Stemming (and Hiding) Hair Loss

“Full, healthy hair is seen as a sign of beauty,” says Miriam Bloch, celebrity wig designer and founder of The Wig Addiction hair care products.

But what if that mane is starting to wane?

While hair loss is often thought to primarily affect men, according to the American Hair Loss Association, nearly 40 percent of those experiencing it are women.

The fault lies with a variety of factors. “Hormonal changes, genetics, stressors, diet, environment, disease, illness and medications can all contribute to hair loss and thinning,” says dermatologist and hair surgeon Craig Ziering. “And for those who engage in tension-creating hairstyles, excessive use of heated tools, color and chemicals, this can lead over time to follicle damage and destruction, leading to thin, weak hair.” In other words, consider dumping daily use of that flat iron.

Time is of the essence though when dealing with the problem. “The good news is that many effective interventions exist, but these treatments work better in the earlier stages of loss with a multipronged approach, and for those without underlying medical conditions such as anemia and hypothyroidism,” says dermatologist Tess Mauricio (who recently worked with Khloe Kardashian to remove a facial skin tumor). For those who want to avoid going the route of hair transplant surgery — which can easily cost $15,000 and up — here are alternative ways to stem (or hide) the loss.

LASER TREATMENTS

Ava MD and Skin Five’s Dr. Ava Shamban is seeing impressive results with the Fotona HAIRestart stimulation program. During each 30- to 40-minute session (around $250 and up per treatment), a handheld laser unit delivers energy to targeted hair follicles. “This controlled laser energy triggers follicle function and has helped to slow the loss of hair and regenerate new hair growth for both women and men without any pain or downtime,” she says. Results may vary as each client is unique, with four to six visits (spaced a week apart) suggested for optimal results.

Another pain-free, doctor-administered option causing a stir is KeraLase Ultra. During each 30-minute treatment ($4,500 for a suggested package of three, which includes at-home products), a laser applied to the scalp creates microchannels in the epidermis in order to infuse a serum of five growth factors and proteins. “This is particularly helpful in the earlier stages of thinning, and it will solidify and strengthen growth as well as support slowing the loss process,” says Ziering.

WIGS, TOPPERS AND EXTENSIONS

Embraced more than ever, wigs offer instantly thicker locks — along with substantial ease and versatility — especially under the expertise of L.A.’s most revered artisans, whose natural-looking, customized work has dramatically elevated the craft. “There are a significant number of people wearing wigs now; it’s so common,” says Bloch. Adds wigmaker and extensions specialist Merria Dearman, whose clients include Gisele Bündchen and Madonna, “When the work is really good, you can’t tell — it’s like great plastic surgery.”

Both Bloch and Dearman, who work with only ethically sourced, 100 percent human hair, are sought after by women suffering from thinning hair, genetic hair loss, alopecia and cancer, along with clients who simply want a new look.

One of their most popular items is a topper (think of it like a mini wig), which fits right behind the hairline for a dose of volume and fullness on top of the head.

“Precision is key as the hair on the topper must match your real hair that’s flowing on the bottom,” says Bloch. Toppers have become so commonplace in Hollywood that Dearman is now training celebrity hair stylists how to design and style them.

Prices for their designs begin at $2,000 and can take anywhere from two weeks to six months depending on the work involved. With the proper care (Bloch and Dearman both stress using a UV protectant to preserve the color and texture), their tour de force creations can last up to 5 years.

And if you’ve been yearning for extensions to add volume, but the possible damage they may inflict and the thought of sitting in a chair for 8-plus hours is wildly unappealing, it’s time to schedule a visit with Priscilla Valles Aguilar. The reigning queen of hair extensions (her clients include Dua Lipa, Katy Perry, Chrissy Teigen, Kim Kardashian, and Jake Gyllenhaal for his role in Prince of Persia) is revered for her efficiency, attention to detail, maintaining the health of the hair (thanks to her technique and utilizing individual keratin bonds), and remarkable speed — she does an entire head of hair in as little as one hour.

“Extensions have a reputation for bad application, but I’ve mastered the application and removal process, and time they remain on the hair — five-to-seven weeks — before any damage sets in,” she says. “My clients are actually getting healthier hair underneath my extensions.” Expect to pay anywhere from $2,000-$8,000 depending on the number of rows for Valles Aguilar’s artistry.

From left: Hairstylist Jay Small’s Arey to The Root serum; $55, areygrey. com; a custom Merria Dearman wig in progress; the handheld Fotona HAIRestart laser device

From left: Hairstylist Jay Small’s Arey to The Root serum; $55, areygrey. com; a custom Merria Dearman wig in progress; the handheld Fotona HAIRestart laser device

AREY, LASER: COURTESY OF BRAND. WIG: MARTIN CROOKE.

TOPICAL TREATMENTS

While minoxidil, the well-known FDA-approved topical treatment for pattern hair loss, recently garnered headlines for prompting hair growth when taken orally as an off-label medication, some hair doctors, including Century City-based Marc Dauer, are not prescribing it orally due to concerns over side effects including drops in blood pressure.

Other docs say they continue to find success with serums applied directly to the scalp. Dermatologist Macrene Alexiades, whose overall client list includes writer-director Christopher McQuarrie and Sienna Miller, can barely keep her topical hair growth prescription product in stock. “It’s a combination of FDA-approved finasteride [the generic term for propecia] and minoxidil that doesn’t leave a residue, and it works.” Alexiades is also a proponent of taking hair supplement Nutrafol. “A significant percentage of subjects have reported improvement in hair growth, volume, thickness, and hair growth rate,” she adds.

Ziering offers his own minoxidil- and antioxidant-fueled topical, ZMin: “This is a customized prescription solution that requires a consistent 20 drops daily, and results will be seen in three months.”

Nonprescription products that can help keep hair healthy include Beverly Hills hair clinic Harklinikken’s customized Extract ($88) with burdock root and cow’s milk derivatives, and cult beauty brand Agent Nateur’s Holi (Locks) treatment oil ($88) with milk-based bioactive ingredients.

Celebrity-adored, Ayurvedic line Ranavat (fans include Mindy Kaling and Gwyneth Paltrow) often sells out of their Fortifying Hair Serum. Founder Michelle Ranavat suggests a weekly hair oiling routine consisting of a deep head massage to invigorate the scalp. “This helps encourage healthy hair growth,” she says.

Celebrity hairstylist Jay Small (Matt Damon, Noah Centineo) has created his own serum, To the Root by Arey. “It combines antioxidants and peptides with a volumizing ingredient, and we’ve excluded fragrance, oil and fillers to provide the scalp with what it needs to assist hair follicle growth,” he says. The patent-pending formula is billed as a triple threat as it’s also designed to slow and reverse gray hair growth.

A version of this story first appeared in the Nov. 2 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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