From Sturgeon DNA to Malassezin, Hollywood Beauty Pros Are Using These Buzzy Science-Backed Ingredients to Prep Stars for the Met Gala

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Leading skin-care pros know one of the secrets to ageless skin is using high-quality products formulated with science-backed ingredients. And with the forthcoming Met Gala and Cannes Film Festival, a camera-ready visage is paramount.

While hyaluronic acid (for hydration and boosting elasticity), retinol (known for smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles) and vitamin C (for brighter, firmer skin) are ubiquitous, there are heaps of other powerful ingredients stepping into the limelight.

Before they head off to prep clients for Met and Cannes this month, we asked industry-frequented doctors and estheticians to weigh in on the under-the-radar ingredients and products deserving of prime positioning on your countertop. Below, read on for intel from Adeela Crown (who works with Mikey Madison, Monica Barbaro and Paris Hilton), Linda Ross (clients include Uzo Aduba, America Ferrera and Aubrey Plaza), dermatologist Dr. Timm Golueke (Cynthia Erivo, Demi Moore and Emma Stone are among clientele), Gina Marí and more Hollywood beauty insiders.

Malassezin

Discovered and patented by the lead guitarist of Incubus, Mike Einziger and his master violinist wife Ann Marie Simpson-Einziger (after developing a benign condition that resulted in lightened spots of skin on her back), malassezin is a breakthrough ingredient with published data proving its effectiveness in reducing the appearance of brown spots. Derived from Malassezia furfur (a naturally occurring yeast on the skin), it’s reportedly 10 times more effective than vitamin C for evening skin tone.

“Malassezin inhibits pigment production and is made from a chemical produced by a yeast that is considered part of the normal skin flora,” says dermatologist Dr. Sonia Batra. “It is more potent and less irritating than some older ingredients to address hyperpigmentation.”

After years of clinical trials, the Einzigers bottled malassezin. Mother Science is the result of their work and the only brand featuring this ingredient.

Mother Science Molecular Hero Serum

Fern

The prolific fern, yes, the classic household plant, has survived millions of years, and its resilience has been studied by scientists.

“Ferns have outlived dinosaurs, continental shifts, climate changes and the birth of the internet,” international facialist Adeela Crown tells THR. “Due to the plant’s superior environmental adaptability, its menthol extracts have been credited with antioxidant, anticancer and anti-inflammatory properties.”

Dermatologist Dr. Timm Golueke created his Royal Fern skincare collection around this marvel. “Fern extracts have shown the potential in shielding the skin against environmental stress, decreasing inflammation and boosting collagen,” he says.

“Whether it’s acne inflammation or restoring the barrier after a thermal energy treatment, I always rely on the Royal Fern collection to recommend to my clients as the ideal antidote for a youthful, rested complexion,” adds Crown who has delivered her Crowning Glory facial treatment to Cate Blanchett and Demi Moore.

Royal Fern Radiance Duo 2-Piece Set

Royal Fern by Dr. Timm Golueke Phytoactive Anti-Oxidative Ampoules

CoQ10 Powder

While most face serums are in cream or gel form, powder formulations are causing a stir. “I prefer a dry powder formula because it does not require stabilizers or preservatives, so your skin is getting the purest form when activated,” says elite esthetician Gina Marí.

“Exponent Beauty and their perfect ‘dosing’ system takes out all the guesswork. With their powder serums and multi-weighted hyaluronic acid, you mix up a fresh batch every time you apply,” she adds.  Brand founder Liz Whitman was so convinced of the efficacy of her powder-based serums, she invested in costly clinical trials. “Their 0.5 percent Firming Filter CoQ10 (Coenzyme Q10) is my new favorite active. It helps brighten discoloration and improves firmness,” adds Marí.

Exponent Firming Filter CoQ10 Power Serum

Growth Factors

Plastic surgeon Dr. Jason Diamond, whose Metacine Instafacial Collection is adored by Kate Hudson and Nikki Glaser, formulated his Plasma serum with biomimetic growth factors engineered to be identical to those found in young, healthy skin. “Aging is an injury – it is just happening everywhere, all at once,” he tells THR. “Growth factors help the body’s capability to fight the signs of aging and applying them daily puts you in the best position to look and feel your best.”

Janel Luu, a formulator lauded for pioneering the use of epidermal growth factor (EGF) in creams and serums, says growth factors are “a must” for people over thirty whose skin is starting to show the signs of aging. Her Le Mieux EGF-DNA Serum, developed alongside scientists and physicians, is formulated with EGF, referred to as a “Youth Molecule” for its ability to regenerate the skin.

Dr. Diamond Metacine Instafacial Collection

Skinmedica TNS Advanced+ Serum

Developed by the makers of Botox (previously Allergan, now AbbVie), Skinmedica’s TNS Advanced+ Serum contains two chambers of the company’s proprietary formulas: one with a nourishing peptide complex and a growth factor blend to support the skin barrier; and another with marine extract and green microalgae for activating the skin’s renewal process and supporting collagen and elastin levels. When dispensed, the ingredients mix on the spot to provide the most effective results — think visibly smoother and lifted skin in as little as two weeks. — Danielle Directo-Meston

Colostrum

Thank cows for this radiance-inducing wonder. After witnessing the eye-popping benefits of colostrum (the first milk an animal produces right after giving birth), celebrity esthetician Linda Ross created a Colostrum Mask derived from the first milking of grass-fed cows, free of hormones and antibiotics. “Nutrients found in colostrum strengthen the skin’s immune system and help calm acne, eczema and rosacea,” she says.

Ross’ colostrum mask is so pure and free of oils, it can also be used with LED and microcurrent treatments. Many of her celebrity clients use the Colostrum Mask before red carpet events, press junkets and photo shoots. “The colostrum aids in making the application of make-up more flawless and is gentle enough to use daily,” she adds.

Many of her clients, including Uzo Aduba, America Ferrera, Aubrey Plaza and studio heads use the Colostrum Mask before red carpet events. “It provides an immediate glow.”

Linda Ross Colostrum Mask

Vetiver Root

A deeply revered dense root with many healing properties and a warm, earthy scent, vetiver has been used in Ayurveda for hundreds of years. “It’s known to soothe and relieve inflammation, fatigue, pain and various skin diseases,” says Varuni Palacios, founder and principal esthetician at Studio Varuni.

When Credo Beauty, the epicenter for clean and sustainable beauty products, took a deep dive into hero ingredients for the launch of their first facial skincare collection, they chose vetiver as the anchor for their cleansers and moisturizers.

“Vetiver can be helpful for healing inflammation, the root cause of almost every modern-day skin condition, including acne, rosacea, dermatitis, flaking and more, and facilitates exfoliation and detoxification,” says Palacios. “It contributes to a healthier, more hydrated, brighter, even toned and glowing complexion,” she adds. “Every box checked.” And when it comes to Credo’s product packaging, vessels and parts, this is the height of sustainability. 

Credo Rewind Vetiver Root + Bakuchiol Moisturizer for Aging Skin

Credo Deep Thirst Vetiver Root + Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer

Caviar and Sturgeon DNA

A rare and treasured delicacy, caviar is the epitome of indulgence for gourmands and skincare aficionados. While it’s rich in vitamins, fatty acids and nutrients, Crown doesn’t advise slathering this liquid gold on your face. 

“You’ll need to turn to brands with pedigree like La Prairie and their Skin Caviar Collection, as they’ve been harnessing the benefits of caviar science for the past 35 years. I call it a superstar ingredient to get that instant ‘expensive-looking skin’ we all crave,” says Crown.

Valmont features sturgeon DNA in their cult-favorite L’Elixir des Glaciers Crème Merveilleuse face cream. “The sturgeon is the oldest and rarest fish in the world, and produces the best caviar available,” says the brand’s senior aesthetician Krista Francescut. Valmont partnered with Caviar de Neuvic, renowned for its ethical sturgeon breeding. “This double sturgeon DNA is easily absorbed by the skin cells to help reduce the signs of aging.”

La Prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift Serum

Valmont l’Elixir Des Glaciers Crème Merveilleuse

Medicube Overnight Renewal Salmon PDRN Duo

Korean skin-care brand Medicube’s PDRN Pink Peptide Serum and Collagen Capsule Cream duo are infused with salmon PDRN, which offers similar benefits to sturgeon DNA. The ingredient helps to stimulate skin cells and tissue repair and promoting elastin and collagen production.

Glutathione

Known as the master antioxidant, glutathione is a powerhouse. “It has the ability to combat oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health,” says Dr. Nayan Patel, a globally renowned researcher of glutathione. “As we age, our skin’s natural production of antioxidants decreases. Glutathione helps by maintaining collagen levels, promoting skin elasticity, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.”

Products that contain glutathione including Patel’s Auro Skincare collection, help prevent skin aging and can also help with acne, discoloration and redness.

Auro Skincare Rest + Repair Overnight Restorative Cream

LAPCOS Glutathione Radiance Rescue Mask, 5-Count