#The secrets behind Lily James’ haunting costumes in ‘Rebecca’
“#The secrets behind Lily James’ haunting costumes in ‘Rebecca’”
After all, the author’s adored 1938 suspense novel about a paid lady’s companion marrying an aristocratic British widower was iconically adapted by Alfred Hitchcock into the multi Oscar-winning 1940 black and white classic — a tough act to follow.
But Day rose to the challenge, keen to use a dazzling palate of colors for the sumptuous movie remake starring “Downton Abbey” grad Lily James and “Call Me By Your Name” hunk Armie Hammer. It premieres Wednesday, October 21, on Netflix.
“For me, the 1930s were the beginning of the modern era of clothing,” Day told The Post. “I love the silhouettes and took inspiration from Hollywood at the time — actresses like Greta Garbo — and royalty including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.”
Hues range from paler pastels to English countryside greens, as well as brooding purples and deep navy blues. The color transitions reflect the twisting plot that shifts from light to dark as the titular Rebecca, the late first wife of Maxim de Winter, begins to haunt her naive successor, played by James.
“For the opening scenes set in Monte Carlo, I put Armie, who takes the role of Maxim, in a custom suit made from gold fabric,” Day said. “It became the representation of an Oscar statuette. He was basically the prize for the [humble] character played by Lily.”
Staying faithful to du Maurier’s book, the innocent newlywed is never fully named in the film. During their whirlwind courtship, Maxim calls her “you little fool.” Later, when she arrives at her husband’s ancestral home, the fabled coastal estate of Manderley, she is simply addressed as Mrs. de Winter.
London-based Day, widely acclaimed as costume designer for the two rock biopics “Bohemian Rhapsody” and “Rocketman,” described the actors in “Rebecca” as the “best-looking cast I have ever worked with.” He particularly enjoyed dressing James who “looks absolutely stunning in anything she wears.”
The 31-year-old beauty, currently at the center of a headline-grabbing sex scandal with actor Dominic West, 51, of “The Affair” fame, goes from frumpy to fabulous.
“We started out with her as a bit of a dowdy lady’s maid and then she turns into a romantic figure as she falls in love with Maxim,” said Day.
Her stylish outfits include a Liberty print blouse with a ruffle, paired with blue, flat-fronted palazzo pants and a straw hat. “It’s so English rose in the South of France,” said Day, who made most of the costumes himself from vintage patterns.
Then there is the formfitting, bias-cut dress that James winds up wearing on the fateful night of the Manderley ball. A furious Maxim orders her to change after the manipulative head housekeeper Mrs. Danvers, played by Kristin Scott Thomas, tricks her into copying a gown previously worn by Rebecca.
“We called it the ‘sad dress’ because she is so upset,” remembered Day. The delicate flower design was custom-printed onto white crepe material since he could find nothing suitable that was ready-made.
For the disturbing vignette in which Mrs. Danvers attempts to goad her new employer into jumping to her death from a window, the team adapted the dress to accommodate James’ safety harness.
“We made a lot of ‘repeats,’ because she wears the dress in several scenes,” added Day, explaining how different versions of the garment were tailored simultaneously. “It was Lily’s favorite [piece] on the entire film so I donated one to her after we wrapped.”
As for the deranged villainess Mrs. Danvers, Scott Thomas rocks the same sharp, nipped-in suit throughout the movie — a sexy, sinister look inspired by a dominatrix.
“I wanted to channel that vibe and Kristin played it up,” said Day. “Under her jacket, we had her in chiffon blouses in colors which reflected the changing nature of a bruise. I kept Googling the progression of a bruise because Mrs. Danvers was the wound of Manderley.”
Meanwhile, though the seemingly sainted Rebecca doesn’t make an appearance in the film, she presents a fashion element in her own right as she is often referenced in terms of her attire. Most notably, Mrs. Danvers shows the Second Mrs. de Winter a vampy black chiffon nightgown worn by Rebecca as part of her psychotic campaign to intimidate her.
Dark as the story got, it all added up to a “brilliant” assignment for Day. “I got to play with some pretty interesting costumes,” he said. “It was a whole lot of fun.”
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